Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What forms of payment does the Japanese Maple Tree Farm accept?

A: Cash and checks.

Q: I need my tree installed or pruned who do you recommend?

A: ISA Certified Arborist Benjamin Sweet, Artistic Arborist & Landscape Co. 919-538-8969 Favorite Business>

Q: Does the Japanese Maple Tree Farm ship trees?

A: Currently we do not ship.

Q: What is the best resource for problems with a tree?

A: Each county operates a Cooperative Extension Service with Master Gardeners to assist the public with all types questions related to trees and gardening.

    For Wake county it is

Q: Where will Japanese Maples grow?

A: USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 5b-8

Q: What USDA Hardiness Zone am I located in?


Q: How should I plant my Japanese Maple?

A: Step 1. Dig the hole so that when you set the tree in, the soil is above the natural grade.

    Step 2. If the soil drains poorly amend the soil with soil conditioner, you can make the mix up to 50%.

    Step 3. Remove the tree from the pot, slice the tree roots vertically in three places around the root ball..

    Step 4: Place the tree in the hole and backfill with soil until the root ball is covered slightly.

    Step 5: Mulch with a good coating 1-2 inches of pine bark or hardwood mulch.

    Step 6: Water thoroughly.

Q: How often should I water my Japanese Maple.

A: Moisture should be checked once per week during the growing season. Water when moisture level is low.

    NEVER water w/o checking, Japanese Maples DO NOT like continuously wet conditions.

Q: Are there any pests that attack Japanese Maples?

A: The most common is the Japanese Beetle in Mid June -Mid July, We use Sevin to eliminate them.

Q: How/When should I fertilize my Japanese Maple?

A: We recommend Scotts Osmocote product.

    1 tablespoon per inch of caliper (trunk diameter) Apply at the end of Feb.

Q: When Should I prune my Japanese Maple?

A: Small pruning (less than 1/4") can be done anytime, Large pruning should be done in late Feb.

Q: What are the spots on my leaves?

A: Phyllosticta Minima (Maple Leaf Spot) Identification: Not to be confused with tar spot, these spots appear on a maple's leaves, are tan to brown in the center, and are violently red to purple around the edges. The spots can also be small black pinpricks like a banana or mango that's going bad. Caused By: The fungus Phyllosticta minima Season: The fungus can overwinter in leaf debris and reinfect things in the spring. Susceptible Species: Many maples are susceptible to this, but Amur, Japanese, red, and silver maple seem especially so Treatment: The best treatment is an ounce of prevention. Be sure that the tree's canopy isn't overcrowded, that the tree isn't over- or under-watered, that any fallen leaves are removed, that any infected-looking leaves are removed, and that it has proper nutrients. You can also plant resistant strains. Threat Level: Low (mostly cosmetic and doesn't seem to cause lasting structural damage)
Fungicides containing chlorothalonil, or myclobutanil, or thiophanate-methyl, or mancozeb, or azoxystrobin, give good results. Maples are subject to several leaf spot diseases. Phyllosticta Leaf Spot, caused by the fungus, Phyllosticta minima, causes unsightly lesions on leaves, but rarely causes defoliation.

Q: How much will the pot I get weigh?

A: Approximately 8 pounds per gallon.

Q: I have a tree I want to transplant to another location in the yard, when should I do it?

A: We recommend the months of Jan & Feb.

Q: I have a tree I want to transplant to another location in the yard, what size should the root ball be?

A: The root ball should be 10 to 12 inches in diameter per inch of tree caliper.